If ya like it then you should have put a ring on it ...oh ha ho!!!

Day 17. 19^th February 17….Clipped wings

Its Sunday 19^th February and I've been grounded now for four days, I return to the hospital in the morning to have my stitches removed and to see whether things have settled. I still have discomfort but its controlled with pain relief so we’ll see what they have to say....fingers crossed the futures bright! I’ve decided for the sake of my sanity and regardless of the outcome Its time to move on. If I need to return I can fly back to Chiang Mai in a few days but my feet have started dancing again and my mind is craving pastures new and I need to feed ‘the beast' so it's decision time....where to next?

There are a couple of places I’d like to talk about before closing out Northern Thailand. One I visited before getting ill, the other a bus tour to kill the endless boredom. This ended up being ironically one of my favourite trips!

13^th February – Life of Pai

Pai is set in the mountains 80 miles north west of Chain Mai. It’s a 3 hour journey by bus along incredibly winding roads. It was a white knuckle ride famous for its recorded 762 bends. The drivers take unforgivable chances and my eyes were closed on many occasion as we’re on the wrong side of the road heading straight at oncoming traffic or riding dangerously close to unprotected sheer drops. My nerves just about held out….but the stomach of the petite Malaysian lady next to me did not. After a series of strange spluttering noises and ‘burping’ to my left ….yep you guessed it…up came her breakfast without warning!! I was bag and tissue attendant…the stench made me wretch with her. I felt quite sorry for her, but knew we were only half way there so had another 380 bends to go….i’m traumatised! I’m sitting there looking out of the window away from the carnage wondering what the bloody hell I’ve landed myself in now!!

Pai originally was an unspoilt village in which the ‘new age traveller’ type travelled to obtain the ultimate ‘unseen land and culture’ experience. But over time the tourist industry has swallowed it up and whilst only a brief visit, the town to me appeared to be ‘Hippy central’. Masses of dreadlocks and free flowing clothing, spiritual centres, vegan food, outdoor prayers, conservation, recycling, up-cycling, meditation and yoga.

During my stay in Thailand, I have seen many of the ‘new age traveller type’ and in my quiet moments can’t help but observe them. I’ve always warmed to the idea of obtaining spiritual enlightenment and living a clean and peaceful life, but my observations disappointingly lead me to feel this is all a bit fake. It seems to me to be the perfect setting for the vulnerable soul to be sucked into a cult type mentality that promises eternal life to the dedicated follower of what essentially is a narcissistic leader.

I couldn’t help laughing to myself as a mass of scooters roar up at a restaurant (vegan of course) with a brigade of Hare Krishna’s dismounting practically demanding ownership of the place. The staff are scurrying around bowing whilst trying desperately to accommodate them. The men all had uncut dreadlocks and beards which they tied in knots and the women were wrapped in white linen cloth, like a sari. This was some kind of weird cult. The guy in black in this photo was the leader….or god himself I’m not sure?….I did not like him. I could see right through his self-absorbed ego massaging intentions and felt sorry for his lame and directionless disciples.

I wanted to remind him he’s just a mortal man….JUST ORDINARY, NOTHING SPECIAL.…holding no higher value than his fellow human, but well let’s face it....he’s delusional and probably would have used my outburst as an example of how negativity infests the mind and commits the soul into eternal darkness lol. Instead I leave with my thoughts, there were no ‘chips’ worth gambling for here.  

I was fascinated by the Chinese village, formed by Chinese refugees after the war. A little community of its own, Thailand allowed citizenship to the original members and gave opportunities for work to rehabilitate it after it became overwhelmed by the drug trade. People live minimally in shacks here but there’s a school, church, shops etc,. I couldn’t help but feel sad for the children running around here….their prospects for the future were non-existent.

    The Pai Canyon....this was impressive and very narrow in parts...you need a head for heights!!

    A view from the top of the Chinese village

I wanted to pitch my tent right next to his...a phenomenal view!!

 

                   

    Chinese Village

I would recommend anyone visiting northern Thailand to visit Pai, whilst I wasn’t overly enamoured with the centre itself there are some beautiful look out points just outside of the town. Pai is set in a ‘bowl’ and offers  a canyon, jungle treks and hot springs if you head further into the mountains, I would do this if I returned. It was just a beautiful place.

17^th February 17….The Golden Triangle

In the midst of my dental crisis I decide to book a simple bus tour to eradicate the 'cabin fever' that has manifested itself within the four walls of my hotel room. I'm literally climbing the walls. I decide on a tour to Chiang Rai which is a city 120 miles north east of Chiang Mai. Its a 3 hour coach journey. The bus is full as I board, just one little seat at the front, which I'm grateful for as my previous experience to Pai led me (and my stomach) to realise you are best at the front! I'm free again and I press my nose to the glass and enjoy the excitement of the unknown once again.

The first place we visit is the famous white temple or 'Wat Rong Khun" to use its proper title. I thought I was 'templed out' after seeing so many back in Bangkok but this mother of all temples just absolutely blew my mind....I've never ever seen anything like it, my eyes couldn't take it in. This immaculate structure had 'class' running through its core, the detail simply incredible. It was built by a visual artist named Chalermchai Kositpipat, famous for using Buddhist imagery and is essentially an art exhibit. It is yet to be completed and the site will ultimately contain multiple buildings.  

The hands symbolise 'greed and materialism', the detail is life size and immaculate ....but bordering on sinister admittedly. Inside the temple shows Buddha with superhero's like batman and superman, said represent the 'world as one'. It was an amazing place...a must see.

The next stop was the golden triangle. The Mekong river separates Laos and Thailand with a control border between Thailand and Myanmar (formerly Burma) to the North. A huge golden Buddha sits along the Mekong river and represents the site where Myanmar, Thailand and Laos used to meet to 'trade' or 'do business'. From what I read, this largely consisted of import and export of Opium. It was quite exciting to look across the river to another country, with Burma a few miles north to the Border in the distance (which we later visited). Each country contributed to the landmark Buddha.

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The boat trip was great and I was looking forward to my first steps ashore the land of Laos. I was immediately shocked and disappointed to be met by the below faces accompanied by hoards of other unkempt children begging. The abundance of what had seemed a poor Thailand was apparent as a very poor Laos became a crushing reality. The traders were overwhelming / bordering aggressive in their sales tactics, it was uncomfortable. I moved swiftly away from the busy area. I left very disheartened and felt helpless that I would never be able to change the reality of these children's bleak future. This was tough and these images will stay with me.

The furthest point North of Thailand. Behind the fence was Myanmar.

The last stop of the day was to the 'Karen Long Neck Tribe' village set in the mountains. Originally settled from Burma, the original tribe now also have Thai Citizenship. The story goes .....years ago the man of the house was so busy smoking opium and 'off his head' that the woman was left to do all the chores, cooking, cleaning, fetching wood and trading etc,. So in order to protect herself they implemented the rings to the neck in an attempt to foil an attack from wild animals etc,. They begin putting the rings on the girls at just 5 years old and they sleep, eat, function only removing it for the 'next size up'!

I think we've probably all seen these on the TV but to see it with my own eyes was something else....made me shudder and properly creeped me out. It's simply barbaric.  

Below are some images I found whilst browsing the stalls:

This must have been a 'ring fitting'?

These were taken during the visit:

"If you like it then you should have put a ring on it ....oh ha ho!"

 'Wind ya neck in love' ......omg seriously creepy I couldn't stop staring,

my eyeballs were on stalks, my brain couldn't compute it!! 

                   
So next time ladies when your man lovingly suggests its time he bought you a ring..... check he hasn't been smoking opium, if he has ....bloody well join him!

Bye for now,

Clair x