Bangkok

Day 1 - 3^rd January 2017

So this is where it all began……..

Having said my sorry goodbyes to my house and views I departed for Birmingham Airport at 9.30am. The feeling is surreal, once the house was locked down and bags closed for the final time a huge elation spread through me like a tsunami wave, I could honestly barely contain myself!! As I depart the runway there’s an indescribable inner knowingness I’m doing the right thing.

As the adrenaline courses through my veins, I’m enjoying the moment knowing once the couple of glasses of wine I’ve consumed on the flight begin to wear off, the realisation will hit that this is my life now for the next six months, no two days will be the same, no two places the same. Just me and my little (12kg) rucksack for 180days!!

I have to confess I am not good with being the focus of attention and in an attempt to avoid, I cowardly opted to depart a week earlier than I’ve told my family and friends. I tried to believe I was sparing them upset but in truth It’s me that would have struggled to say goodbye to people I love so, if you are reading this (and you know who you are) please know I love you, will sincerely miss you dearly and I am genuinely sorry.

Day 2 - 4^th February 2017

Its currently 2.15am, I’m in Dubai Airport now, gate A20 awaiting my connecting flight to Bangkok. I feel so peaceful and calm. It’s funny the things that sweep through your mind at these times…. did I lock the garage door? what will tomorrow bring? ……W.T.F AM I DOING!

As I scan the departure lounge I can’t help but notice a number of seemingly seedy middle aged gentleman travelling alone (or is this just my imagination running wild??).  I’m trying desperately to keep an open mind but conditioning and perceptions keep seeping in and the ongoing battle not to judge continues….

On landing in Bangkok all hell broke loose, it felt disorganised and frantic which for the first time made me feel uneasy. I scanned the queue for ‘a brit’ to latch onto to, to guide me through the unknown territory of the system and after a failed attempt with helpful Germans (using only pigeon English bless them) I latched on to a guy in his late fifties, a small roundish guy, well-spoken from Jersey. I knew I was simply an annoyance to him but he was too polite to silence my nervous ramblings! He was on one of his ‘regular’ trips to Phuket. He smelt of stale alcohol but was pleasant in his manner. I couldn’t help wonder what his intensions were during his visit…but no …stop assuming …stay focused!  He did kindly help me through passport control, waved and then disappeared into the crowd. I knew this was the first fleeting meeting of strangers on my journey.

After a long nervous wait my bag finally arrived. Fortunately, my transfer was waiting and I swiftly headed off into 30-degree heat with a taxi driver who couldn’t speak a bloody word of English. I did chuckle to myself at his attempts to communicate using only ‘yeah’ and nodding at all the wrong moments in our failed conversation. He was kind and smiley though and persevered to find my well-hidden hotel (or hovel as it should be known). I can’t stop chuckling to myself at the carnage of it all.

The hotel is family run, the wife works behind the reception with her child in a pushchair or running freely around the space and a husband in the wings dictating their every move. Elderly relatives also wander the ground floor. The first thing I notice is the miniature lizard 'thingy' climbing the wall behind reception …WTF!!. My room (No. 19) is beyond basic, chipped teak furniture, a dirty brown blanket which clearly contains remnants of previous guests…(Note* this won’t be used!!). I can’t help but wonder how many have slept on this mattress…. No stop the thinking bus right there...get off at this stop!!

There is no toilet roll?….not sure on the etiquette here? I’m going to have to further investigate…….to be continued....

I’m staying on Khao San road, its party bloody central!! I did protest when the agent booked accommodation here but I kind of understand why now he insisted this was a good place to be. It is the hub of activity located centrally for attractions etc. Khao San Road is literally the 'skeg vegas' of South East Asia. I wandered the streets feeling a bit empty inside at the sights. I know I’m not in the right place and will move on but going to go with it for now.

I sample a foot massage with a ‘chang’ beer (this was brutal heaven), had a nice chat with a couple of English tourists, sampled a Thai curry (the waiter advised “this will be too hot for you miss Clair”, to be fair it was and my nose ran like a tap…he laughed) it was tasty. I tried some ‘street crispy pancakes’ these however were rancid, I know my face said it all…the poor girl serving looked horrified but I simply had to dispose of them quickly and spat it on the floor.... it was very rude of me and i still feel bad about that.

Day 3 – 5^th February 2017 

I had a really bad night. Having not slept for 30 hours over the previous days, my body clock has gone even more haywire than usual. My body just wouldn’t sleep so I ended up watching British films on TV until 6am when I finally drifted off so my day started around 11am when I finally arose.

I make my way onto the Khao San strip for brunch. It’s a staggering 34degrees which literally saturates you the moment you step out. I immediately realise I’ve brought all the wrong clothes!! I’m met with absolute chaos once more, stalls, tuk tuk, bikes and bodies absolutely everywhere.

I find a busy little café bar and order a thai salad and cup of tea. Observing my surroundings, I notice a small group of middle aged men across the shabby road who appear to be too drunk to represent mere drinking from the night before. Whilst initially appearing relatively normal, albeit a bit unkempt their eyes are glazed, their movements slow and deliberate and behaviours strikingly odd. The group disperses and the loudest man heads for the next table to me. My heart sinks and I know it’s only a matter of time before he makes contact. He orders a beer and while I’ve got my head down writing my diary I can’t help but descreetly observe him. The locals seem to know him and he gestures, hugs and plays with them. He gives off the vibe of a lovable rogue. He’s about 6’3, light haired not unhandsome (is that even a word….but you know what I mean) but quite gangly. His clothes are nice but the dirty nails, missing teeth and sunken features confirm the neglect. He puts in his headphones whilst still reaching out and gesturing to the locals and passers-by. A tourist wanders by with a flowing top and long beard and he yells “good morning Jesus” the man stares and offers no reply. I’m laughing in my tea at this point at his quick witticism. Then it happens…. he turns and looks straight at me with is dark sunken eyes and asks “where you from?”..... “UK” I gingerly reply…” I’m your neighbour from Holland he replies”. I smile and he assures me “I won’t bother you I promise” he turns and puts his earphones back in then quickly turns back and asks “are you happy?” I say “yes”, he says “I am not happy” (In his dutch accent) I reply “I know” and that was that, he turned and drank his beer continuing his flamboyant routine and embarking on dialogue with anyone daring to make eye contact.  

This left me with a real sadness, I closed the conversation down because I knew the consequences of continuing it. This behaviour is an all too familiar sight for me and reminded me of someone back home. Its cruel that life can take such a toll and destroy the lives of fundamentally good people and heart-breaking to watch the light of their souls grow dim. I will not forget this man.

After lunch I’m a girl on a mission...I need data!!! I head off to a local store where the owner gratefully sells me a data sim for 500Baht (approximately £11). This allows me one month of unlimited data…..Ahhh I can communicate with the outside world again….I’m so pleased with myself!! I feel more secure knowing I have GPS for maps to get around and confident now in the knowledge I can contact people in an emergency….I’m on it!!

I set up maps on my phone and head off on foot for the ‘Grand palace’ and ‘wat Pho’ (wat pho is a Buddhist temple containing a 46M long gold reclining buddha).

On my way the streets are lined with market stalls selling tat, the streets are dirty and poverty surrounds me. What I initially thought were ‘lock ups’ for the traders I now see are actually people’s homes! A small room with a metal shuttered front opens to multiple family occupants sharing a minute lounge and such basic welfare facilities… this makes me really sad inside, but they are cheerful and greet you as you pass. I understand this is their reality and all relative, but can't help wanting to save them all. Perhaps for them they wouldn't want saving.... I then find myself questioning is it their simple existence or our material westernised lives which are actually unfulfilling?   

I approach the palace grounds and a guard takes me through security. He asks my intensions then advises “the palace is closed today”. This causes me to break into a little snigger as in my research I found they always tell tourists this but it is funny to hear it first-hand...I think he knew I was onto him. I smile, nod and continue to an alternative entrance where they finally let me in. Thailand has declared a year of mourning after the passing of their king back in October. There were many Thai visitors all dressed in back and solemn, it felt black. The palace and the grounds are a huge array of stunningly perfect symmetrical and streamline architecture. I felt very calm here and sat for a long while just observing my surroundings.

With the day moving on I head to wat pho and this place did blow me away. It was absolutely beautiful. The reclining buddha is indescribable, I’ve never seen anything like it, it’s so powerful!

It’s multiple small buildings, temples and the largest collection of buddha’s I believe can actually reside in one place. The intricate detail of the architecture, colours, greenery and gold glistening cannot be captured in pictures (I did try) or in words…. you genuinely have to feel it.....this place was right up my street!!

The highlight of this visit was being lucky enough to arrive when the monks were performing their afternoon ritual, I sat for quite a while in peaceful bliss as they chanted, dedicating their lives to their god. I’m fascinated and mesmerised by their commitment and sacrifice they make to follow this dream. 

I read in my research a woman must never touch a monk (yep …that’s right) so I’ve got a bit of paranoia going on, fearing i'll bump into one accidentally and ruin his life…this thought makes me chuckle though!!

Other etiquette when entering the temples are:

•  Do not speak
• Legs must be covered
• Shoulders must be covered (this can’t be a scarf)
• NEVER point the soles of your feet towards Buddha

I felt ashamed of the UK as the brits show up in their shorts and vests sitting straight legged. They were hastily reprimanded and removed by the guards. Sigh... It’s the little things… and whilst travelling we must absolutely respect the culture…. rant over. 

 I head home and pick up a Thai iced tea and some pork noodles in a spicy broth. This cost 80 baht (£1.80) and was by far the best meal I’ve had…absolutely delicious. I’m hoping my stomach holds out on this one!!

I got back around 8pm and after a bit of downtime headed to the strip for a wander. It was absolute mayhem, so loud, the smells, the drunken crowds of people. Its everything I would normally hate but this overwhelming sense of ‘now I get Bangkok’ came over me.

I was offered to go to a ‘ping pong’ show and ‘laughing gas’ …. I mean really at my age. Funny thing is in the eye of the storm a middle age woman like me is completely invisible…. I felt bizarrely incredibly safe and what was going to be a quick hour walk around ended up 3 hours of people watching and entertainment…. it’s absolutely addictive. There are so many live bands and shockingly amazing street dancers. The bands are hilarious and while musically they are phenomenal, the accent of the lead singers in every instance just left me in hysterical laughter inside as they belt out songs such as Guns and Roses “fweet chiowld off mine” …still laughing as I write it…funniest thing I’ve seen in ages!!!

Who knows what tomorrow will bring…………

 

Yes my travel companion...THE lucky pound made it to Bangkok with me!!

Kaoh San Road