The view from the skies excites me as we smoothly coast over New Zealand. You can clearly see the pimpled green blanket and sapphire blue lake landscape. It's so green Its almost unnatural to my eyes, animated like Teletubby land or Postman Pats village (I couldn't see the little red van!)
I'd agreed to a double barrel flight to New Zealand via Sydney to keep costs low....I regret this. It took approximately 22 hours in total. Overnight and with no sleep I arrive in Auckland with my mind, legs and body in tatters.
The first thing that hit me was the climate, it's 14 degrees with a chilly crispness to the air. It's autumn here and the seasonal change hits me unexpectedly hard. As I take a wander down busy Queen Street I notice the coldness in my bones, my body temperature dropping with every step. The golden brown fallen leaves scatter the streets and people roam in woolly hats, scarfs and jackets. I always associate autumn with romance, it's that time of year when you get wrapped up for a nice walk, holding hands and a cosy night in cuddled on the sofa with a roaring fire......ahhh a nice thought. I've always struggled though with the seasonal shift from summer to winter so such a sudden impact is really difficult to cope with ....I immediately feel intensely alone here, roaming directionless like the littlest hobo.
Beggars and homeless are in their droves on Queen Street. I can smell lots of different aromas from restaurants, aftershave to donuts. I realise the air is cleaner and my senses are heightened or restored. They must have been dulled by the humidity, pollution and poor sanitation in S.E.A. The street feels scruffy and unkempt, it's like walking along Mansfield Road in Nottingham....I don't like it! I feel my mood lowering and a real sense of panic replacing calm, it's too much like home and the thought of returning to my life is frightening. I realise I need to find a distraction and get moving ASAP.
A view of Auckland Sky Tower from Queen Street
View of Auckland City from Auckland Bridge. *Fact - The bridge was architecturally upgraded, designed by two young architects aged 19 and 21 and is affectionately known now to New Zealander's as the 'clip on' as it was just clipped on to the existing bridge structure.
I've turned into a professional Nomad and arrived in NZ with no cash and no plan. After a bit of research I decide to head for the South Island asap where I'll hire a car and return to the north in about 10 days by air. The next couple of days I catch up on some much needed sleep then head off on a tour to the 'Bay of Islands' in the north. The driver greets me and I'm immediately confused. From a distance this shortish specimen is sporting a blond bob which is obviously a wig. As I draw near I see this is a male, with the 'fixtures and fittings' of a short and ugly woman (it reminds me those men in drag from that oven cleaning advert a few years back). He introduces himself over the tannoy as Rachel. This all feels very odd....but I roll with it. It makes me smile hearing the deep male voice commentary then viewing the bleach blond hair and electric blue long witchy fingernails wrapped around the coach steering wheel. He/she talks about being married and having grown up children and I can't help but feel for this family, the devastation it must cause to announce such feelings, but another part of me can't help but sympathise with the torment of a person trapped inside the wrong body, it's cruel and something we all just take for granted.
Meet Rachel!
It takes 3.5 hours to reach the far north, there's only a young English lad (Chris) and myself doing this tour and with time to kill before the cruise we randomly catch a ferry to Russell. It's on the mainland, a cute little 1950's vibe fishing seaside town which is picturesque and relaxing. We have a beer and Chris then pours his heart out about his divorce four years ago! I seem to be achieving these story's in record time now...He's a nice lad but still very broken, what can you do but listen....I felt like his mother! I could seriously do without this right now, i'm not in the head space for it... ahhh man give me a break from this *hit oh lord!
Chris from Southampton...bless him, he's a sweet shy lad.
Views from Russell Island
I was intrigued by this island and the next evening managed to get a ticket for the Auckland Playhouse to watch a play called Kororareka which is the Maori (original settlers) name for Russell Island. Its a famous story of an Irish woman (Maggie Flynn) a whore and convict who became pregnant in the workhouse and was banished to Australia to serve out her sentence. She manages to convince the ships crew into mutiny, taking over as captain and steering the ship to New Zealand (loving this lady's grit). She marries a local tribesman (who dies) and she builds a brothel empire on Russell Island. I've missed the theatre and its still one of my favourite thing to do a cold winters evening.
On my One as the Theatre begins.
Captain cook discovered the bay in 1769, walked to the highest peak and named the area 'The Bay of Islands' ....imaginative hey!
It's a huge expanse of water with pretty, (mainly uninhabited) small rock formations. It's a nice way to spend a day. The dolphins were a wonderful sight, hundreds of them humping their backs out of the water feeding and swishing gracefully and swiftly below the boats hull. They look happy in their natural environment and they were playful around the boat. The highlight of the day for me though was travelling through the country.
The famous 'Hole in the Rock' ....a lot of thought must have gone into these names!
Beautiful creatures, they somehow sooth the soul.
The average house price for a standard 3 bedroom home in Auckland would set you back a staggering 1million New Zealand dollars (£570k), relocation of natives to the city and an influx of foreigners seeking the better life continues to raise prices. The housing is manly prefab, timber framed and unimaginative.... it's not value for money and they pale into insignificance as the rolling green hills glistening in the crisp morning sun, towering native trees, farmland and spectacular scenery in every angle as far as your eyes will lead you is dominantly breathtaking. It doesn't take long to realise is where the value lies in this country.
It's like a fantasy, an untouched paradise from a movie, the whole landscape looks like it's been photoshopped. The contrasting sharp and vibrant colours blend perfectly into the undulating, mountainous and volcanic terrain. It's untouched perfection... but naturally perfect. It's a cared for and loved country, deservedly so. It's like nothing else I've seen and the best word I can use to describe it is PURE ....and it is pure, in every sense of the word.
Next up is a little trip to Waiheke island, east off the coast of Auckland. It's only 40mins away from the city by ferry but feels a million miles away.
A couple of degrees higher on the island than mainland creates perfect conditions for growing grapes and there are many quality Vineyards on this island. Merlot, Malbec & Shiraz some of the favourites grown here. It takes about 5 years to produce a batch....and about 5 seconds to consume (for me anyway) ha ha!
I've noticed I'm having to heavily readjust coming from Asia. You can no longer eat noodles for breakfast or smelly foods like garlic and fish and not worry knowing someone always stinks worse than you! When people approach me in shops I'm having to remind myself they are not going to pounce on me and force a sale (I must have seemed so rude when I first arrived, I just ignored and scowled at any greetings). Rain here is drizzle which soaks you just the same, not the torrential rain and no more charades! There's orderly queueing and things are on time so I must stop barging people out of my way lol!
I'm on the move and decide to catch the Kiwi Rail Northern Explorer train to Wellington. It's 6am and I head off to the station. I arrive at the period red brick station only to discover it's apartments, the original Strand Station has been closed for some time... maps fail me again! I follow a few random signs and eventually end up in a car park with a portacabin ....this is the station! My high expectations of an orient express experience are dashed. I'm exhausted carrying my rucksack for an hour of faffing and I'm wondering what the bloody hell this place is all about! Once on the train however everything settles down and the peaceful and picturesque journey soothes my dis-ease. It's a wonderfully relaxing way to travel, with full commentary (through a headset) which I loved. It was an eleven hour journey but the most beautiful I've ever experienced. Rail spirals, viaducts, snow capped volcanos, national park, rivers, waterfalls, acres of farmland, vegetable crops etc, I've now covered 900km, the full length of the North Island by land.
I like Wellington much more than Auckland. Auckland was formally the capital but this was changed to Wellington a few years back as its geographically more central to the country, but i think its more deserved. It has a much more pleasant vibe for me. I realise I'm always attracted to cities where things are easily accessible and you can escape the bustle into the green space. I only have a day here but managed to pack a lot in and get the most out of it. I visit the cable car (which is a funicular), botanical gardens and to the opposite side of the city I walk the Mount Victoria lookout.
I'd been enjoying plush ensuite accommodation with a pool in Indonesia for £20-25 (max) per night. This hurts.
I have to smile walking around, it's more apparent in Wellington which is sleepy port town than Auckland, the more 'professional' and higher flying city. Something that i've been mentally noting since arriving in New Zealand is theres a distinct lack of imagination, almost....dare i say it... a 'backwardness' about it all. The build strategy seems to have remained the same since the beginning of time which screams an outward attitude of 'if it aint broke don't fix it mate' in their methodology..... I'm just glad we didn't wait for these guys to invent the wheel (if you know what I mean)! Stores, bars and restaurants have basic names like 'Steve's fish n chips', Monty's Food Market, Sheila's Shoes....it's laughable. On the islands there was a distinct 'inbred', 'not quite right' vibe to them....some individuals just don't seem all there...like they're missing a shilling or two. But this has a charm all of its own, it's endearing and I genuinely like the innocence of it all...even if it does make me chuckle.
The baggage handlers tell me how tired I look. Considering I'd had no sleep and an hour of lumping 20kg around I thought I looked marvellous! (joking of course, I was a hanging mess admittedly)
What a start to the day :-)
You can just make out the ice capped volcano in through the fog....incredible!
The 11 hour route.
Well....I'd seen to many vineyards...it had to be sampled.
From dawn until dusk.....a pictured resume of my day on the train.
Here's my humble digs. A very basic room (its freezing) in a very noisy (filled with teenagers hostel) Hostel with shared stainless steel welfare facilities....all for the a staggering £50 (a ridiculously high price in my world) a night!
I'd been enjoying plush ensuite accommodation with a pool in Indonesia for £20-25 (max) per night. This hurts.
I have to smile walking around, it's more apparent in Wellington which is sleepy port town than Auckland, the more 'professional' and higher flying city. Something that i've been mentally noting since arriving in New Zealand is theres a distinct lack of imagination, almost....dare i say it... a 'backwardness' about it all. The build strategy seems to have remained the same since the beginning of time which screams an outward attitude of 'if it aint broke don't fix it mate' in their methodology..... I'm just glad we didn't wait for these guys to invent the wheel (if you know what I mean)! Stores, bars and restaurants have basic names like 'Steve's fish n chips', Monty's Food Market, Sheila's Shoes....it's laughable. On the islands there was a distinct 'inbred', 'not quite right' vibe to them....some individuals just don't seem all there...like they're missing a shilling or two. But this has a charm all of its own, it's endearing and I genuinely like the innocence of it all...even if it does make me chuckle.
Sculpture 'Solace in the Wind' ....I so know how this guy feels.
From a classy sculpture to a tacky light show in the funicular tunnels...WTF is this weirdness? Stop the world I wanna get off!
The botanical gardens....loved this. I'm a secret tree lover (ok a few of you know!)
A typical street and house style in Wellington
Views from Mount Victoria
In the 'engine room' catching up on the washing at the hostel....well its not all glamorous you know!
A protest against organ harvesting by the Chinese. I know I'm safe....no-one would want mine!
Budgeting hard. Everything is so expensive in NZ. Its mainly fast food which i'm not enjoying, however I've discovered NZ's love sushi...they're queueing out shops for it. This is salmon teriyaki sushi with a miso soup ....an amazing little find for £6. I only have one good meal a day....the rest is just snacks stuff. I'm more of a student than Owen!
Tomorrow I head for the South Island. Who knows what just adventures are in store....
xxx
xxx
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