"You can leave Hong Kong, but it will never leave you.”

My next destination was due to be the Philippines on the 3rd May, however speaking to fellow travellers and reviewing government guidelines, the safety for tourists is currently in the spotlight and questionable at the moment. I still want to go as the Philippines is less evolved than other counties I've visited and the natural beaches are some of the most beautiful in the world. I decide to delay and reduce my time there. I fly to Cebu on 9th May. So somethings been eating at me ...I realise how close it is and the seed is planted. This might be my only opportunity, I know I shouldn't make rash decisions and will be heading 'off piste' again...is it a reckless move? probably. ...should i?....I think so.  can I?...yes I bloody can...OK let's roll!!

Off I go again...a new adventure awaits!!

I know I was pushing my budget going to Hong Kong but managed to find accommodation in the centre of Kowloon city for £30 per night. I always read reviews and this place had 1,700 reviews and a rating of '8.0' of course there's always negatives but in my experience 8.0 is usually good. I already know the place is a bit 'rough and ready' and whilst I'm not relishing the prospect I book it with an attitude of 'having no great expectations'.

Going to a new city I always do my research and knowing it's a late arrival I want to ensure I know exactly where I'm heading. As I read on, articles continue to emerge about my hotel, one of many embedded in the 'Chung King Mansions' ....a well known high rise death trap, place of harassment, vice and drugs etc,....basically the 'St. Ann's' of Hong Kong. I have to stop reading as I've worked myself into a nervous wreck by this point. On landing I question the lady at the tourist information and I observe her wide panic stricken eyes as she she advises..."Everyone knows this place, be careful and check your locks". It's now 8.30pm and I'm seriously panicking....it's too late to change things tonight...I'll have to accept my fate.

I purchase an Octopus card for optimum flexibility (I'd researched) and catch the airport express and two tubes, finally arriving ....it's 9.30pm now. As I walk through the shabby and 'shifty' indoor market at ground level there are lots of creepy Indian traders in your face trying to sell you 'a room', 'marijuana', SIM card or a watch! I just blank them and keep walking (I had far worse in Cambodia).

I head straight for the lift (I knew exactly where to head in the chaos) ejecting on the 5th floor. I'm greeted by a tall, intimidating but pleasant African man 'Mr Rich' (you couldn't make that up ...funny) he has another young male backpacker with him who looks like a rabbit in the headlights. We do the paperwork and he then announces "right lets go - 13th floor!". I notice Mr Rich has crushed down and is walking on the heels of his shoes in a sort of lazy and blasé (or bluntly can't be *rsed fashion)....it's clear he's done this walk before. Also he doesn't look at you, but through you. During most of our initial conversation he was fixed blankly staring at the CCTV monitors, there are cameras everywhere...I immediately think of the film 'Sliver' back in the 90's where William Baldwin's character is stalking his tenants ugh I shudder. Oddly though this just goaded me into making pleasant conversation (keep your enemies close and all that) and 'pushing him', he eventually concedes and engages with me. After a 10 minute wait for the single (claustrophobic) lift and a walk through the crystal maze of corridors, shiny tiled walls, fake crystal wall lights (Del boys dream I'm thinking) , he opens the door to my 'airing cupboard' room number 1388. It's 2m x 2m in which the queen bed fills the room. The make shift bathroom has a shower directly above the toilet...showering whilst on the loo - interesting! I start to snigger to myself inside. Mr Rich assures me I'll be safe and disappears into the night. I name my temporary dwelling 'The Vice Den'.

I sit on the scabby bed observing my sleazy surroundings listening to the crazy shouting, arguing, showering and 'comings and goings' of fellow occupants through the paper thin partition walls. 

What a sight of beauty ...the Chung King Mansions (cracks me up, I've never seen anything less like a mansion) I'm on the 13th floor....but not wealthy enough to have a window!

After dark you can see the seedy Indian men laying in wait to pounce on their next victims either side of the doorways. They follow 'the weak prey' like packs of wolves. 

The bedroom is like the bathroom or 'prisoner cell block H'...the blue is my new sleeping bag...it has to come out when I suspect the cleanliness of the bed linen....so pretty often in Asia.

One very 'snug' bathroom, it was very entertaining having a shower on top of the toilet!

My first thoughts are bazaarly of relief and memories of my early estate life and teenage experience of living in high rise council accommodation soon start flooding in. I know instantly I can handle it....c'mon I'm thinking the estate kids 'got this'. My concern turns to anger that people think they have the right to intimidate you and I'm having none of it, I'm determined to go the distance...all 12 rounds (or four nights), hopefully it doesn't end in a knock out! I seriously don't fancy the chances of anyone in taking on the challenge, I honestly think I'd kill them the way I feel right now. I'm consciously grateful in this moment for my 'raw and grounded background'. It was exactly what I expected, and for me I've definitely stayed in far worse.

In truth Hong Kong is very easy to navigate around and I felt annoyed that much of the social media stuff is from travellers who really haven't done any research. They get harassed because they don't handle themselves correctly, they get lost because they didn't check the itinerary on the booking or maps of the building to avoid ambling around sticking out like a sore thumb (I appreciate I've got lost previously but this place was a doddle to find if you've read the map), they get upset at the basic accommodation because they don't realise ALL accommodation is small in Hong Kong, and when your paying next to nothing in one of the worlds most expensive cities you've got to expect next to nothing.  This place really is what it is and no, It's not for the faint hearted, you need a back bone and to keep your wits about you taking sensible safety measures, but their naive and ignorant approach to travel caused me a lot of unnecessary worry. 'Rant over' and lesson learnt for me. I sit feeling really proud of myself and smug at having navigated myself late at night through a new city...flight, train, tubes, market, traders and lifts.

I gear up and head out next day into the bright sunshine of Hong Kong....I can't believe I'm here! I wander down to the harbour admiring the clock tower, ferries and cruise ships gliding on the water, it's then through the misty morning I catch a hazy glimpse of the Hong Kong island skyline. Hundreds of impressive sky scrapers enveloped by dramatic mountainous peaks. There's not many things in life that instantly and physically gain a reaction from me, but this did. It stopped me dead in my tracks, "oh my god" actually unprompted and verbalised from my jaw dropped mouth. I was absolutely blown away by its presence and dominance...it's spectacular WOW WOW!

 This was my first view through the misty morning....even with a grey back drop I fell in love.

I 'HAVE' to be there, at the top I'm thinking, so I immediately in the moment hop on the famous 'star' ferry, number 15C bus and the 'peak tram' to the top of Victoria peak. I skip off the little tram like an excited child off to the candy store. My eyes are everywhere, I can't decide which direction to head... so much choice! I find a viewing point and am bolted to the spot for over an hour immersed in this incredible and unbelievable view.

The 'Star' ferry

......onto the peak tram

I'm still reeling in shock at this site!

In the evening I head back to the harbour for the 'symphony of lights' show at 8pm. As I approach from the darkness this overwhelming site awaits me. It's every electrical designers dream....a spectacular array of light, graphics, movement, colours, images, projections, flashes, lasers, synchronisation....a lavish, extravagant and undeniably magnificent display before me, the most impressive sight I have ever seen.....I'm absolutely blown away. I'm led through a roller coaster of emotion...elation at its magnificence, in oar of the intelligence and designers behind its greatness, annoyed at the crowds (I want it for myself), gratitude for being privileged enough to see it and sad I can't share the moment. 

It's simply magnificent

Day two I decide to meander around Kowloon, the former 'walled city'. I head for the garden of stars, then onto Kowloon park. 

ooh my favourite Jackie Chan had big hands...mmmm!!

Well there's only one...he had to be referenced.

Kowloon Park is the site of walled city and slums prior to the reunification in 1997. It's hard to imagine this place as you imagine in the Van Damme 1987 Movie 'Bloodsport'

I need food but my budget here is challenging to say the least, I find a hawker market down a back street and head downstairs to the food zone. There's a sea of about 2,000 people all slurping, gossipping the atmosphere is bustling and exciting. I'm the only Caucasian/tourist in there. I order dim sum (steamed vegetable and pork dumplings) for $17 Hong Kong dollars (£1.70 ish). I take my bamboo steamer and sit next to a couple. I can feel their eyes boring into me. I get my chop sticks into position trying to hold my nerve but these 'slippery sucker' dumplings get the better of me. It's like trying to pick up a pea with a couple of needles on an ice skating rink...the dumplings go everywhere....everywhere except for in my mouth! The locals are entertained and smirking as I leave with bruised pride and hunger unsatisfied. With a rumbling tum I hit the MTR underground and arrive on Lantau Island. I was hoping to catch the cable car...which i discover is under repair ....just like in Langkawi! Ahh well you can't win em all. Instead I sit on the rooftop of a shopping centre admiring the urban landscape entwined with the mountains and rolling clouds swallowing up their sky lined peaks.

I meander the streets for the remainder of the day soaking up the vibe and window shopping.

Renowned for its amazing food I feel i should sample a few traditional dishes, most restaurant prices start from £10 a meal. Over three days I manage to find these dishes for £5 or below in markets used mainly by locals:

Beef Wanton Noodles & Chinese tea.

Pork & Vegetable Dim Sum (yes these are the culprits that left me red faced)

Griddle and sizzling spicy chicken and rice with cheese (?) on top.

Spicy beef & noodle broth

Budgeting hard I packed myself up each day from the local 7/11 supermarket....This is the manky'ist' cheese sandwich I've ever had...I felt very sorry for myself in this particular moment. 

I decide to spend my final day at the beach, feeling this would complete the overall balance of my visit. As I read up I discover the 'dragons back trail' which is a walk up the peaks forming part of the larger and world famous Hong Kong Trail...the end of the 8km trail leads directly to the beach. I'm on it, and shoot out of bed....two tubes and the number 9 bus later I'm at the start line which begins with a steep accent. A mile in and I'm astounded at the beauty that surrounds me...I didn't think it could get any better and I simply cannot believe what I'm experiencing....natural trails, stunning views, peace and tranquillity less than an hour from the city? I indulge in it and feel the flame inside me ignite and burn bright for the short couple of hours of this route as nostalgia hits and I recall who I once was and the things I truly love. Unforgettable and a very precious moment of self fulfilment.

The Dragons Back Trail 

I still can't believe this is Hong Kong. The Big Wave beach is set in a little village that has a Cornish vibe
and 'surf' focus.

Hong Kong's calm ambiance, efficiency, family orientation, 'happy and healthy' lifestyle focus, dignified but professional attitude lures you in and is one of the finest examples of integrating nature and mankind, old and new, history and future... it's ying and yang.

It amalgamates the best of some of my favourite cities. It has the vibe of London, a streamline and efficient transport network like Singapore, the built up skyline of New York and a proud, dignified and hard working culture like Vietnam. The towering and formidable mountains rubbing shoulders with the city is the cherry on the cake for me. I'm in love .... my reaction even shocks me. It gives me a feeling like no other city ever has....I leave feeling this could be 'The One'!

See you from the Philippines x