Friday, 7 April 2017

'What are we? human? animals? or savages?'



Human behaviour fascinates and disappoints me. I've learnt out here chivalry is no more...it's gone...a shadow in the past. I'm not the type of person to expect this, but it is noticeable. Even common courtesy sadly no longer exists . The world out here is primitive. It's not only male to female, but human to human. The behaviour I'm witnessing is animalistic and savagery. When did we stop caring for our fellow man? ...or is this my untravelled naivety?.. did we really ever care? Everywhere there are large numbers of people it's the same story. If you were at the front of the queue, it counts for nothing out here. There's no courtesy whatsoever and the politer the person (or weaker the runt) the more likely your going to get trampled over. Once your down your stamped on a few more times just to make sure you stay down! In my recent experience, I set off to the ferry bound for Langkawi. I have my ticket in advance and am good to go. I join the queue like everyone else (I'm fairly near the front) but once boarding commences the intense inrush of people pushing, shoving and trampling over you to get through is ridiculous. I just don't get it? You've all got a seat number, and your all going to get on so why not just take your time? It's collective insanity. I'm disgusted  and repulsed by this unattractive and selfish behaviour. I'm hoping this ship doesn't go down because I'll be last off the boat for sure, I have no interest whatsoever in partaking in the 'insanity' or battling for a place on the 'emergency life craft' with these morons!


All aboard the ferry. Much more civilised than 30 minutes earlier...you see my point on whats the rush?

Another observation is of people who have absolutely no common sense WHATSOEVER! They just bungle their way through their adventure....and it works out for them! Part of me envies the 'turn up on the day' approach but I'm organised and that's the way I feel I should stay....(although as time passes I see myself becoming more blasé  about it all). I usually suss out a terminal I need to be at least a day in advance so I don't have the drama that comes with 'winging it', it's a much more relaxed method. But the amount of people i've had to help who are flapping, and uncontrollably raging is ridiculous and frustrating. There is always a bit of a system / structure in place in South East Asia but it's always loose. Any sensible person knows you need your wits about you and a calm approach. Things out here happen when they happen, you cannot control the outcome of anything so best to just ride with it as opposed to against it. 

I arrive at my accommodation...it's owned by a Muslim family (here we go again) a young girl shows me to my room and as we climb the stairs to the second floor I'm getting that 'FFS' feeling. This place reminds me of the old maisonettes in Radford which were bulldozed back in the nineties. The same should be applied here. It feels grubby and I'm just not liking it. I decide to chill and write a few notes to see if a distraction might ease me into this place, but after around twenty minutes I realise I'm not alone.... an army of ants are brazenly patrolling my bed, pillows, phone and me! When one scurries across my laptop screen as I write I reach my breaking point.. NOPE...cannot do! I've stayed at many dodgy places and not complained once this far but I flatly refuse this. I reach for the insect bomb...and my trusty friend has the little blighters on their backs saying their long goodbyes (along with any other living creature) in minutes (love you I.B) But there's a 10mm gap around the door and as I open and look out... the whole colony is uniformly in a steady line making it's way to my bed...ENOUGH! I head for reception and kindly explain "Even though I shouldn't have to I can deal with them once in the room, but you've got to block off their point of entry or I'm on a 24/7 mercy mission here!". The owner replies "oh they're everywhere in my house too", he then comes up with an ingenious solution...."don't worry, tomorrow I will come and put a boiled sweet in the corner of your room, this is sure to deter them". I feel my ears are failing me, so ask him to repeat.... but no... unfortunately I'd heard right the first time... Jesus WTF!!!...this is going to be rough ride! I know theres absolutely no point in causing a fuss so I go in softly.... and after a few huffs,  uncomfortable silences and glares from them (they genuinely can't see a problem) I manage to gently persuade them to fumigate the entrance and surrounding space fortunately negating the need to implement the 'crazy' boiled sweet solution.

   

My 'beautiful' hotel and a fallen soldier ...victim of the insect bomb.


                      

Meet the neighbours.....jeepers!!!

I venture out into Langkawi and it becomes evident very quickly that this place isn't the idealistic paradise 'it' thinks it is, it's delusional if you ask me. Ive seen much better beaches, experienced much richer culture, scenery and food for a fraction of what's on offer here. In Penang a good meal and drink cost me 15 ringgit....here the starting price for very average food is 40 ringgit (The island however is duty free so on a positive note you can pick up a beer for about sixty pence...every cloud and all that!!). There's no public transport links so it's taxi everywhere (I did know and accept this in advance) but the whole tourist industry focus here is solely to part you with your hard earned cash. I cannot abide exploitation and that's what this is. I was looking forward to coming here after hearing it described as the 'creme de la creme' or paradise of Malaysia ....but I realise this is foolishly led by the ignorant tourist who can't see beyond their 'status' and who are gullible enough to pay these prices ....all in the name of vanity (in my opinion).

It has the hall markings and vibe of Phuket...aimed at the 'middle class'. 5 star accommodation and fake luxury swallows up the coast line. New construction sites ravage the once natural beauty of the island. Water sports floating on the shore awaiting the US dollar to fill their bows. I came over on the ferry with quite a few backpackers but tourism predominantly comes from 50-70year old semi/retired, expats who are looking for some pampering. This place is everything I don't want and I cannot warm to it.....I'm paying double what i was previously paying for everything and would switch in a heartbeat back to my £14 a night hostel in Penang. If my flight wasn't booked that's exactly what I'd be doing. If somewhere is genuinely beautiful and luxurious, then it deserves its place on the tourism map (for the right reasons), but this isn't and I'm struggling to understand why people can't see it's all a sham?


  









On the flip side I get the sense of a wedge being driven between the local residents and tourists. There's a definite resentment and belief that all 'westerners' are 'rich'. They don't like you and its evident behind the fake smiles. On arrival when I said I was from the UK they blurted.. "oh so your a rich person?"!! I can see how from their point of view the flashy tourist with their 'bling', arrogance, snobbishness and imaginary status (which I've witnessed) would grate....but thankfully we're not all like that.

There's also a huge fascination here with me being alone....it seems beyond comprehension to locals and I'm questioned constantly which is uncomfortable. I feel I'm always being 'watched'....but that's a constant throughout Asia really, there are 'predators' everywhere. It's definitely a couples and family place which does give you pangs of loneliness, but I remind myself this is their problem not mine. I have four days here and I'm going to go for it and make the most of the time I have.

I head off on the 'mangrove tour' for the day. This tour ventures north of the island following the river visiting a 'bat cave', fish farm, crocodile rock, monkey island and eagle feeding site. It was nice to see the monkeys in their natural habitat although I cannot warm to these creatures, they're aggressive and menacing.  The eagle feed however was something quite spectacular. They rev up the boats engines to stir the water and the eagles swoop to feed. Their graceful motion and impressive wing span was incredible to watch. You can't help but inhale and immerse yourself in their freedom and grace.



The bat cave....didn't see Robin?.... add *astards to Robin though and you've summed Langkawi up!


Monkey Island...sometimes no matter how hard you try you just can't get along!


The boat journey and eagle feeding

The activity i looked forward to doing most in Langkawi was the Sky Bridge....but unluckily this is closed for annual maintenance from 1st to 11th April. Typical grrr....so i  did an island hopping tour which visited the "pregnant maiden' Island and Beras Basah. The scenery is beautiful but it was too busy for me, the trip was spoilt by vain posers, selfie sticks and uncomfortable volumes of people in close proximity. The highlight of the day was seeing an impromptu visit from dolphins swimming close to the boat...this was a magical moment which saved the day.



On my way home i picked up a local speciality "Nasi Lemak" from a young boy selling on the street. He looked confused when I said I wanted one. I could tell he was nervous about what my reaction would be...he knew more than me for sure. I realise why when I open the neat little parcel! This consists of seasoned rice with small fish on top. I couldn't bring myself to eat the fish...they'd still got their eyeballs and intestines in tact...c'mon really?! but the rice and seasoning was amazing mmmm.

   

Their fishy eyes followed me around the room....ahhh man i just couldn't


Your just to good to be true...i can't take my eyes off've you!!



My final sunset in Langkawi


Having a beer as the sun goes down for my Nana Gin x...cheers!

I have the morning free to enjoy before my Airport Taxi arrives so I decide to visit the 'underwater world' (a local attraction I was recommended to see), I have a few hours spare to enjoy it. Wow, how underwhelming....its was tragic. Small tanks, big fish a tunnel with no underwater creatures in it and hidden fees that weren't advised when entering. I was finished in 30minutes.... 100 ringgit lighter and well and truly shafted! I might as well have just thrown the money out from my luxurious balcony! ......ahhh you've got to laugh!


The only nice view in the aquarium!


I can do this too....never come between me and my food!!


Out and about 'Sharking'! and a viewing corridor with absolutely no sea life in it....fabulous!


I did find NEMO though 😏

I survived four nights and I'm very happy to be leaving, but this is travelling and places like Langkawi only makes me appreciate the genuinely good places more when I find them. As they say....'you can't win em all' x 



A whole new country awaits me now......this is the best feeling in the world! ...See you next time from VIETNAM......sooo excited!!!

Clair xxxx

2 comments:

  1. Great read as ever mate, can't help but think you could feel the same in Bali
    The 5* luxury vs the traditional way of life was vast and uncomfortable and like you was happier in the village, respecting the culture and fitting in as best I could
    It's the Aussie paradise and they can be brash and insensitive to the locals I hated Kuta for that very reason, suppose it's just the way of this crazy world mate

    Well you are safely in Vietnam and I'm packing!!! 5 more sleeps and I'm on my way, can't wait to see you and soak up a couple of weeks of your adventure ❤️

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  2. Will definitly be trying out the boiled sweet tip next time we get ants......
    iain

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