But my heart is in the right place, this i know.

It was a 9 hour bus trip from Malaka to Penang. My ticket cost 50 ringgit (around £9)....a fraction of a plane ticket and only costing you more time....and luckily I have plenty of that right now! The best part of travelling for me is the journey between cities or countries. There's just something about watching the world go by, I find it incredibly fascinating and relaxing. It's over 300 miles from Melaka to Penang and I notice just how green and flat Malaysia is, It's untouched and naturally beautiful. If I think of Malaysia now ....this is what I picture... hundreds of miles of carpeted luscious green palm trees and rolling dramatic skylines.

I got chatting to a girl on the bus (Ana) from New Zealand and we continued together for the next leg of the journey across on the ferry (Penang is an island north east Malaysia). Walking off the ferry jetty the heavens open (its rained everyday since my arrival in Malaysia). Not wanting our gear soaked we seek refuge in a little bar and have a few drinks waiting for the storm to blow over. After an hour it's not clearing and the water keeps coming. The barman tries to 'brush out' the water to limit the damage but its hopeless...we're sunk and stood in an inch of water in under an hour! I felt so sorry for the owner who promised 'shots' for our loyalty if we return later (we didn't) but It's dark now and we're still not checked in so we have to make a move.

Top: The poor bar owner losing the battle against the elements. Ana (left) and a random floating flip flop in the bar?!

Ana is 30, trained in law but abandoned it after 10 years. I sense she's a bit of a 'dreaming drifter' and is currently working in Thailand teaching English. This funds her life and continued desire to travel for now. 

My concern regarding her was initially raised as she tells me a story of meeting and falling in love with a wealthy Thai man back in Koh Lanta. It's a 3 week romance and he's showered her with gifts and generosity. She returns to him in two weeks. Of course I would never dampen her dream but I was very concerned for her as this had all the hall markings of a scam. I hope I'm wrong.

Passing the time with her I notice what look like severe burn scarring on her forearms. She sees me looking and casually tells me "I was a self harmer... I normally tell people they are burns...don't know why I feel I can tell you?". I'm thinking with that warm inner disappointment.....ahhhh man NOOO here we go....

She had cut her arms so deeply through muscle on hundreds of occasions that the damage and scarring was irreparable (I'm wishing this information would stop coming). She went to Thailand 5 years ago for skin graft surgery and this was the result. She lost the use of her arms through this process. My heart sank and I immediately felt her sorrow and thought of her families desperate battle to support her through it. I told her "I cannot honestly say I understand because I don't, but I am aware of this". What could I say? I won't contribute to a conversation when I know little about such a sensitive subject. This all left me a little bit unnerved in truth and as a whole abuse story poured out of this girl I barely know, I'm left wondering why strangers life stories always seem to find the way to me. 

This was where I believe fact ended and fiction began.... As time went on the stories kept coming, becoming more exaggerated, embellished, unbelievable and attention seeking. She seemed to be desperate for a reaction from me, but she wasn't going to get it. I don't mean this horribly but there's something about this girl just wasn't sitting right with me and unfortunately when I feel like this I'm not usually wrong (I used think on this foresight as a gift, nowadays I feel it's a burden.... It's less hassle to be oblivious to it all).

We leave and Ana goes to catch a bus, she's staying out of town on 'work as you travel' in a cat sanctuary. I didn't like the sound of this...but last minute she blurts out..."maybe I could stay with you?" That was it for me....I have an INTERNAL CONTROLLED EXPLOSION!!...not a frickin' chance! I've not taken my eyes off my stuff for some nagging reason and there's no way I wanted this...my gut was saying NO CHANCE...PREPARE TO LAUNCH THE PARACHUTE... PRESS EMERGENCY EJECT!... and my gut's never failed me yet. I told her she'd be fine and she'd regret it if she didn't make it. I left her with my email (to let me know she made it back safe) and went on my way. It's difficult when you're a compassionate person to be tough, but I'm no mug and stood strong in this instance....I did feel bad about it but well lets face it, I have enough drama in my life.

I find my hostel and 'Mr Miyagy' greets me - Awesome!! "Ha wo Filliams Crair" (I notice immediately he says things the wrong way around) ...funny! I'm soaked and knackered but he seems completely oblivious...he pulls a map from his desk and with enthusiasm like I've never seen in my life begins a virtual tour through Penang...every street, its full history, dates, landmarks and not even missing out public toilets. Everything he wrote down was right to left! ....I know of course this is how Chinese write but I'm chuckling. I'm agog ...stunned into silence nodding politely. After an hour he says ..."I show you woom now Filliams Crair". He then says "you wan fud?" I'm starving and enthusiastically nod. He says "you wike powk? wivver?, kidnay?, bwain?, twipe?" ....I have to stop him mid flow, my stomach is retching just hearing it...."No No No organs ...please!!!" I reply. He's confused ..."you no like owgan?...you should twy - dewicious!" He then kindly orders me minced pork noodles. But I still can't...having worked at a butchers in my teens I know how this works and what goes down the mincing machine...there WILL be organs in there for sure! I try my best not to offend...I have to switch my nose off and gulp one big lump at a time without chewing but in the end I'm too psychologically damaged and heaving so much I have to admit defeat. I cover it with my napkin and run off it at the first given opportunity.

Just one of the notes Mr Miyagy gave me on the history of Penang....You've got it right?

I loved this hostel. It cost £14 per night. I had a small single room (no window) with all other facilities shared. It was owned by a big chinese family who live there with you. It was just like the 'Marigold Hotel' (you'll know in an instant what I mean if you've watched this film). The characters were hilarious. I got caught out a few times by the resident 'american alcoholic' ...you couldn't get away once he'd hooked you. I loved it here....probably for all the wrong reasons ...but it was a warm and entertaining environment. Definitely one of my favourite home stays.

Ana contacted me again the next day with another dramatic and unbelievable story about leaving the cat sanctuary, she'd quit and was now in George Town near me. Something in me wanted my gut to be wrong in this instance, I didn't want to just write her off. So in an attempt to give her a fair chance I met up with her and we ventured up Penang Hill together. To cut a long story short the afternoon ended abruptly when she asked me to use my passport to change money....I'm furious ..UUGH HELLO... KNOCK, KNOCK....do i look like someone who'd be grateful for doing time for your little stunt? (and I'm thinking what rhymes with stunt at this point!)....SERIOUSLY?!...I do not think so my lovely....I had no hesitation in point blank refusing. I'm very sorry for her personal experiences in life but frankly this girl was just a dodgy,  freeloading sociopath!...I walked....kept on walking ....and lived happily ever after!

I'm glad my thoughts were confirmed rather than feeling bad not having tried, but the moral of the story (and shamefully I knew it): ALWAYS trust your gut ...it is never wrong!

Penang Hill: You catch the funicular to the top where spectacular views greet you...its a truly lovely place.

George Town itself is a crumbling old fishing town. It deservedly acquired UNESCO World Heritage Status back in 2008 which means its future is protected and history preserved. There are attempts everywhere to support and restore falling buildings. Locals living along the makeshift wooden 'clan jetties' (jetties were the Malaysians answer to avoidance of extortionate city taxes) opposed this heavily, feeling tourism was an invasion on their privacy. As you walk along the narrow alleys, peoples homes are literally feet away from you, I feel their intrusion. 

The relevant history of Penang dates back to 1786 when Francis Light persuaded the Sultan of Kedah to cede the island known as 'Betel Nut Island' to the British East India Company. Light apparently fired gold coins into the jungle to incentivise his men to clear the island. He told them "you do it" (they understood little english). Mr Miyagy told me this phrase was still used in Penang today as a 'slag' word for money...'youdoit' (I enjoyed this little tale!).

Without established inhabitants Penang was bypassed by ships and regular passing trade but Light had seen its potential for a 'mid way trading position for foreign business'. Attention quickly grew and settlers from china and India soon had a permanent presence. In 1832 Penang formed part of the 'Straits Settlement' with Melaka and Singapore. It grew to be a major trading post for tea, spices, china and cloth trades.

The distinction between cultures and religions in George Town is prominent with each (Chinese, Indian, Muslim, Hindu etc,) dominating certain streets covering a very small geographical area. Each has a completely different vibe...I really like the profound contrast from street to street.

* Additionally ...and I'm gossipping now... years ago there were very few women so 'cross breeding' inevitably occurred and I sense there's a bit of sensitivity about what a true Malaysian is! I'll stay well out of that one....cos' well I know I'm not in the running!

The street art dotted around George Town is incredible. Mr Miyagi gave me an 'Art map' (it was special he said). It shows each position of art which tells the full story of the town over 50 pieces, what a beautiful sight and concept this is....I feel fortunate to have seen this.

  

'Here's looking at you kid!'

The national park was my favourite site in Malaysia. It's on the north west of the island...over an hour on the bus. An absolute must if you come to Penang. It's unspoilt rugged landscape, with walks to various beaches. I chose to walk to Monkey Beach which takes an hour and a quarter. The footpath disappeared 100m in and it turned into a trek through undulating jungle terrain....I loved it, but the rustling bushes and eyes peering out from between the leaves kept me company and did unnerve me walking alone. On the way I stopped at multiple quiet sections of beach with not a single soul on them ...absolute peace and tranquillity. I couldn't understand why walkers weren't stopping? When I arrived at monkey beach I was heavily disappointed. It was loud, busy and felt like the a dirty Jamaican shanty towns (not that iv'e been them) but i didn't like it. I immediately caught the boat back and returned to the unoccupied sections of beach....this was special time I'll treasure ....the closest to 'my vision of paradise'!

 My new friends who joined me for a day on the beach! They came and went all day fishing like otters, it was fascinating to watch.

I'm really liking the bars in Penang. I don't stay out after eight o'clock but there are some really cool and quirky reggae bars (my absolute favourite). I've tried a few, but on your own you do stand out and I've been asked on a number of occasions to join a man for a drink. It's not that they're'hitting' on you...'table share' is a common thing in Malaysia and they don't seem to understand 'lone travel' , surmising lone means lonely! They want to make you happy so you stay longer and buy more beer. The sad thing is all I want to do is have a beer and if I can just sit and do that without someone breathing down my neck or wanting 'to keep me company' I'd be much more comfortable ....and subsequently would buy more beer!

I spend my last evening at my favourite Indian restaurant. It's busy and I end up on a table landlocked on all four sides. I suffer 'the newby hostel friends' (to my left) ego frenzied boasts of where they've been, a large group of Indian women (to my right) comparing their gold Jewellery (they're dripping in it), a young couple in front...on their phones throughout dinner and a middle aged couple behind not speaking a word to each other. I'm sat in the eye

of the storm feeling quietly very content all by myself.... I savour the moment. 

Penang is one of my top three favourite places on my trip this far...I seriously love it. Its safe, easy, comfortable, has oodles of history, character, with a vast variety of things to see, do and enjoy. I've spent five days here and still haven't explored all it has to offer. This place has definitely found its place my memory bank of little treasures.

Randoms:

Morning!! An iced coffee to takeaway... it looks like ...well you know ...but it's amazingly delicious!!

This is the building where Jimmy Choo started his apprenticeship (see I'm finding all the important facts!!)

Bus journey home...now I get that sometimes needs must, but this schoolgirl sat next to me picked her nose all the way back. I mean its a public place for gods sake...whats wrong with ya!

This is a local speciality....'Cendol". It's set on a bed of flavoured shaved ice .....mango, water melon, banana, cranberries, palm fruit, ice cream, nuts....... sounds good right? ....but this is where it all goes wrong...SWEET CORN, GRASS JELLY (which is bitter) and RED KIDNEY BEANS (fresh not tinned she tells me!!).....just WRONG, WRONG, WRONG on every level...NEVER EVER AGAIN I'm heaving just recalling the memory of being too polite to abandon it....this seems to be a running theme with me! I must toughen up and 

just say it's 'RANK LUV!" 

LOVE, LOVE LOVE, LOVE Penang....I'm going to miss this place. I catch the early ferry to Langkawi today...I'll be there by the time you read this. This is my final destination in Malaysia....so see you soon from the island of Langkawi!!

Clair xxx