It's been emotional!

My first glimpse of Cambodia

The Cambodian Tuk Tuk Experience

I arrive in Cambodia to an unpleasant reception from immigration and an incredibly long queue!! ….a tuk tuk driver I’ve booked is waiting with a sign board at the exit. I hop in and I sit silently soaking in my new surroundings …. a whole new country to explore! It has a completely different feel, smell and vibe to Thailand and my first impression…I hate it.

I can’t help feel my opinion is tainted slightly by tales of bad experiences by other travellers and really want to try to give this place a chance so after checking in I head off to see what the city Siem Reap is all about.

Its evident from my surroundings this is an extremely poor country and in my own research I’m already very aware of the high crime rate in Cambodia. This gives me a sense of unease. As I walk alongside the dry and polluted river I’m approached by tuk tuk drivers, every single  one ‘bumper to bumper’ along the streets pleading for your custom. They use every humerus line “to the left to the left!” ..some admittedly did make me silently chuckle…so witty. A small girl with a feral appearance (approx 5 years) comes to me and begs for money…”please madam I cannot go home” I say no and she reaches out with a disgruntled face and claws at my arm in temper…she was to be the first of many. Women wailing begging on their knees babes in arms …”we have nothing…please”.  Every stall and shop you pass pressure for sales “please miss help us survive”. I know It’s said day in day out, learnt behaviour to tourists and forms their routine but it’s evident….these people have absolutely nothing.

The restaurants offer a ‘tourist menu’…but I’m aware of the ‘locals menu’ four times cheaper which gets switched. The local currency is ‘riel’ however they use the US dollar more often. This holds its value better so they take your dollars and give change in Cambodian currency. Hidden costs and inflated prices are absolutely everywhere. They’re cunning and fully prepped to outwit the ‘newby’ tourist.

I return to my hotel mentally exhausted and crushed by the first sights I’ve just experienced. I find it distasteful, infuriating being exploited and hounded so consistently and insistently. I also feel devastated by these peoples lives, the poverty and limited options.

I’m completely aware of ‘what is‘ and am able to detach recognising fully I cannot change their circumstances. But I have a heart and absolutely cannot bear suffering, so for me IGNORANCE IS NOT ALWAYS BLISS and from one human being to another, if I was granted only one wish right now…. it would be for human equality. It broke my heart seeing such desperation and deprivation.  These people are victims of circumstance. Thailand has the sex trade, Cambodia has crime and deceitfulness. You see where people have no choice, exploitation exists. Their actions are not personal to you…it’s survival to them.

A sad and emotional end to my first day.

My first images of Cambodia...the dry , dirty river

The local market...they were gutting fish on the floor...I was heaving!!

The famous 'pub street'..great vibe here but didn't see it after dark...its well known for drugging and robberies!!

The amazing view from my balcony. They were hammering and banging all day in the garage opposite!

Day two I head off to visit some temples. I decide, feeling a bit uneasy to have a personal guide. He collects me at my hotel and we head off together. He introduces himself as ‘Sokha’ (he reminds me of ‘Monkey’ out of ‘Monkey Magic’…I know I’m showing my age there).

He tells me his story. He was uneducated until 17years old. Following the war children were not educated and could not read or write in their own language. His father died when he was four. He worked in the fields until at 17, his grandfather (his only male influence) a disciplinarian and strict mentor randomly marched him to the Buddhist monk pagoda (where monks reside) and asked them to take him….his only condition was they did not blind him or take away the use of his limbs. He said he couldn’t believe or understand why his family would abandon him in this way. I could see this hurt in his eyes a hear the emotion in his voice. This was however his only hope of an education (which he acknowledged). The monks took him and he lived in the pagoda for 14 years. He was educated and went on to learn multiple languages and still has the determination and yearning for knowledge (poor lad questioned me several times on Clifton…I had to spell things out on his phone …funny)  He has aspirations to be a lawyer but the $20,000 fees are beyond his reach. He is very bright, polite, humble, completely unassuming and dignified…He asked me for nothing…I really liked him.

I bought a ham, cheese and tomato baguette from the local bakery to take along for lunch (I’d heard about tales of ants in the food at the temples). Sokha didn’t have any lunch so I shared mine with him….he was astonished and so grateful….his eyes were like saucers as he delved into it saying “I never taste anything like this before? It delicious!”. It touched me when I saw him save a small piece and tuck it discretely into his satchel. I knew this was for his mum he spoke of so fondly.

He spoke openly about the war, the impact to his family generations, of poverty (but in a really positive way), his time as a monk and the ongoing corruption within the government (some being former members of the khmer rouge), police officers and recent ‘ordered’ assassinations of a researcher, humanitarian and basically anyone doing any good for the country. The gunmen are never found and brought to justice. He was extremely frustrated and wanted the Cambodian people to demand answers. He’s passionate and a good man but I know in my heart his efforts here are futile.

We visit three main temples throughout the day Angkor Wat, Bankor, Bayon and Ta Phrom.

Angkor Wat is the famous temple everyone knows and is on the Cambodian flag. The original build and design was by a Hindu King who died before completion. His successor (a Buddhist) completed the build as per the original Hindu kings design. It took 37 years to complete – An incredible mark of respect.

Angkor Wat

 

All of the temples (built in the 12^th century!!) are absolutely incredible …I have so many pictures and information on them but you cannot capture what these places are in pictures or words…they are indescribable. The masonry and intricate carving detail is unbelievable considering the tools of the era. All are in a state of disrepair, with restoration at different stages for each site…..a mammoth task to bring them back to glory but I sincerely hope this is achieved. I understand the need for tourism, but can’t help feeling its wrong to have literally thousands of people marching all over them fighting for the perfect picture and pose, It discredits these sacred places. The occasions are mounting that I feel ashamed to be a tourist.

 Bayon (Smiling) Temple

Ta Prohm Temple...This was in a complete state of disrepair. Trees were growing through buildings and walls....it was so strange and unnatural to see. This was temple used for the Tomb Raider movies.

My final day was at the Siem Reap war museum which covers the last three decades of the 20th century when the Khmer Rouge was active in Cambodia, I found this visit really difficult. Its set out on an old stretch of battle field which contained land mines (some areas still haven’t been cleared). The field is laden with tanks, planes, fire arms, land mines, bombs etc. the walls tell stories of victims and the atrocities that took place (I’m heading off the Phenom Penh (the capital of Cambodia) tomorrow where I will research this further so will continue this in another blog) But this place felt dark and eerie and my heart felt heavy walking around. This is authentic armament collected from multiple war sites used to distinguish lives...I struggle with it and the ignorant tourist imitations of war that surround me. The thing that really struck me was virtually non of it was made in Cambodia. It was all made in USA, USSR and China….why somehow am I not surprised.

Its impossible to imagine as a parent ....

This final picture is of a man who approached me to buy a book later in the afternoon. He'd lost both his arms, his torso was badly damaged and disfigured, the whites of his eyes were blood red. A victim of war, of land mines. He showed me the British flag on his sleeve with pride and a big grin. He was a happy man. I didn't want a book but tried to give him some money. He was mortally offended and hastily corrected me "I am not a beggar mam...I'm a book seller!!" ...this only made me love him more.... and I won the battle in the end. The genuine Cambodian people are incredible...spirited, gutsy, courageous and proud I feel blessed to have met a few. This place has got right under my skin... it's indescribably special!    

See you from the Capital in a few days....

Clair x