We head off to magnetic island via the local ferry, its 20km off the coastline. It's one of natures untouched beauties. We visited the Kuala sanctuary which sadly wasn't a sanctuary, more a money earner from the tourist where animals are overexposed to humans and overhandled, particularly the Kuala's which are nocturnal ...this upset me and we left early heading for the beautiful beaches. We take a walk from horseshoe bay to balding bay, interconnected by a woodland boulder track up hill. We pass a few people en route and exchange pleasantries. On arrival we initially stand admiring the stunning bay enclosed by giant boulders/rocks...it's really pretty and I'm looking forward to a rest after an hours trek. As I scan for a spot to sit I notice a dark haired potbellied man, mid fifties with his back to us. It seems his but-cheeks are glistening in the sunlight but I'm not quite sure? I turn to Owen asking "he is wearing clothes right?", Owen assures me it's my eyes and all is well but this guy notices our arrival and as he swings around his 'crown jewels' slap against his thigh and Owen shouts "oh no he's not got anything on!" and the harsh reality hits we've landed ourselves on a nudist beach (or as they're now titled 'clothes optional') .....mmmm not ideal, but a bloody nightmare with your 18year old son repulsed by the indignity of it all! As the man makes his way towards us we 'leg it' .....our only exit the steep climb from whence we came, the climb nearly killed me but neither option had any great appeal....we've had better afternoons! I kept chuckling to myself but still to this day Owen cannot see the funny side of it, which of course amuses me greatly!
We've made it to Cairns and it's Owens turn for the bungy, again I only announce this to him a couple of hours before he jumps, this method really works (it would not work for me) but my un conquered fear meant a couple of sleepless nights about it!
He waves over the edge seemingly unphased by the height. My heart is in my mouth as he approaches the ledge and he does great, he doesn't overthink it and jumps.
He was shaking when he returns to me, I had a beer waiting of course and his fast speech and wide eyes confirmed the adrenalin rush was still coursing through him.....he was thrilled at his own achievement ....an unforgettable moment for him...and a heart stopping mother moment for me!! Well done son x
I've always wanted to do canyoning and we spend the next day in the rainforest riding the river, abseiling and rock jumping. This sorts the men from the boys and in the first half an hour we're jumping off a 10m cliff ....wow what a rush it gives you In a beautiful and natural environment. It was two young local lads 'Jack' and 'Dom' who were our guides for a small group of ten. Their energy and enthusiasm was infectious and made me want to smash through my fears, pushing my boundaries all the way with their fierce encouragement. I absolutely loved this experience, one of my all time personal favourites!!
Well the east coast road trip would be complete without a trip to the Great Barrier Reef. We set off on a day of snorkelling and scuba diving. Owen wanted to try scuba so we included an introductory dive into the day. I agreed to do it with him to share the experience....Sadly though Owen follows in my footsteps and although very confident in water had problems with the regulator which caused a panic attack ....admirably he completed the dive but vowed never to scuba again. Seems the Williams are destined to remain above sea level!
Our final day in Cairns is spent in the tropical rainforest and river crocodile watching.
The grand hotel in Cairns sits on the corner of the street that our hostel is located and not a single thing about this place is grand. The smell of stale cigarettes and beer stained carpets immediately reminds you of a rough 'spit and sawdust' English boozer. The clientele this place attracts is beyond comprehension. It hosts aborigine descendants laden in fake gold, the stereo typical Ozzy hardened drinker who's unravelling lives have led them into alcoholism, chain smoking and narcotics of some description....anything and everything which can crawl it's way from the gutter resides here. It's the arse end of the world. So we head off to sample the delights of this place. Two schooners cost 6.50aud (around £4), we sit and watching the bedraggled solo guitar artist and in no time I'm struggling to keep a straight face. As he plays a familiar song a drunken man enters the bar dancing....it's uncomfortable as he beckons us to join him so we head outside. There's a group of men at the next table and one very drunk man we'd observed earlier asks me "is that your younger brother?" whilst winking a successful wink to his cronies thinking I can't see his drunk and deliberate motions. I reply "it's my son" and of course he responds "you don't look old enough, come and sit here next to me!" Again he turns to his cronies stating ''I haven't had 'it' in a while'. My stomach gagged and Owen, mortified by this ridiculous situation swallowed his schooner in record time stood up and announced 'we're leaving'. We never returned to the grand hotel.
We fly south back to Sydney and make our way to Bondi Beach. Second to Byron Bay this was my favourite places visited in Australia. It's everything you imagine ....powder white sand, roaring waves made for surfers and inhabited by the coolest dudes ever. We stay at Bondi Backpackers located on the sea front, you literally fall out of the hostel onto the beach...it's an incredible location. The compromise is the institutionalised bunk bed and two wc's between twenty rooms (rooms note, not people!)...I didn't enjoy that but the overall deal made 'roughing it' worthwhile.
Whilst in Sydney we meet with a couple of friends....i'd forgotten how much I miss my friends.
Had a great evening in Kirribilli with Liam & Jenny....who treated us to our first restaurant meal in weeks!
On the ferry to Manly
Owen off for his first surf lesson with 'instructor' Adam
I enjoyed the coastal walk while the boys surfed
I lovely day in Manly with Adam & Chloe
Our trip ends with a few days in Dubai. It's never been a place that's really appealed to me but it would've been a missed opportunity not to visit during the stop over connection.
Driving from the airport the young city remains ever expanding. There is construction ongoing to every aspect of the eight lane highway! This spoils the landscape and our initial impression. I'd paid for this leg back in November and so was now about to reap the rewards of my forward planning on this only occasion (I knew the budget would be creaking). Our hotel is nothing special, but from the hostel standards we'd now become accustomed to this place was a palace! The Porter takes our tatty backpacks (which makes me extremely uncomfortable) and we enter a tempered room of Luxury bedding, tea/coffee facilities an ensuite bathroom with breakfast included - ahhh man it's heaven.
To sum Dubai up in one word I'd have to use: RIDICULOUS. It's everything I thought it would be and everything I don't like, but not having high expectations means anything good I discover whilst here is a huge bonus! It's 'over the top' flash, lavish, ostentatious and all a bit phoney. What we're led to believe through media and advertising is very different to the realty of it all.
We get stuck into a city tour and the earthy 'old town' with the souk's has the most appeal to me. I find it hard to imagine the women's lives in Dubai. Typically one of multiple wives living communally in a single dwelling with in laws in 40 degree temperatures....it doesn't take long for me to conclude I wouldn't last too long in this world - what I'm not sure on is who I'd kill first?!
One thing I do like about the emirates is that foreigners can never obtain citizenship. Only marriage to a local can offer this, but even then the benefits only go to the children born. The local population forms a very small portion of dubais 8 million population and in an attempt to increase these numbers the government have ensured all benefits, good jobs, healthcare, maternity packages (they encourage big families) etc, go to its people - essentially looking after its 'own' first. Foreigners provide investment and skill sets where handsome salaries can be earned, but it's not for me....I could never live here it's 'emotionally baron', there's no heartbeat behind the glitz and gold.
Another nice point was when we visited the famous and gigantic mall...it was rush hour and bustling, as we entered the mall there was a small gathering of press. We later found out that Sheik Mohammed (the popular ruler of Dubai) had stopped to meet someone for coffee!! There was no waiting security, no cordons and no disruption to the mall.....can you imagine chaos if the Queen visited Nottingham?
The financial crash of 2008 leaves Investors sore and buildings unfinished. There were originally three palm islands to be built, only one was finished. The other two are abandoned wasteland now. The 'Island of the World' (man made islands which form a map of the world) also abandoned leaving investors millions in losses. Perhaps Dubai's ego is to blame rather than the crisis? I question how much foreign input contributed, around this time unsustainable salaries had to be offered and I suspect the country was 'ripped off' in its naivety but desperate plight to build the 'biggest and the best'.....I can't help feel however this is a bubble always destined to burst.
To complete our trip to the Middle East we head of on safari into the Arabian desert. The 4x4 experience over the dunes was scary but extremely thrilling and a night of camel riding and belly dancing was the perfect end to our time in Dubai.
The camel ride
Sand Boarding!
the beautiful belly dancer
My six month journey is now at an end and whilst I absolutely do not want to go home I don't feel unhappy about it. I feel extremely privileged to have had this opportunity and sharing this final month with my son completes the dream. This experience, with all its trials and tribulations is the most positive thing I have ever done for myself and the garnered memories are lifelong treasures holding higher value than any material riches. I achieved many of my life long wishes in this short window of time and I'm looking forward to replenishing this list. People say 'it'll change you' but I don't think that's true, I think the fundamentals of our character and soul remain, but travel for the 'heart thinker' positively expands our compassion, empathy and perspective for real suffering, hardship, courage and kindness and instills in your heart that this world is full of quite remarkable and amazing people of whom I had the privilege of meeting an unforgettable few. I feel a very fortunate woman but it's time now to re-enter reality - perhaps just while I dream some new dreams! x
